Concept Of Sampling Process In Garment Industry

   SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

The very beginning stage of garment industry is sampling.Sample means the birth stage or the childhood of a new garment and it become in bulk production having maximum perfection.Sampling is the process of transformation from 2-Dimentional to design3-Dimentional garment.

Sample Room

There are five types of sample at four different stages, they are-

 1. Proto Sample or Fitting sample.

2.  Salesmen Sample or SMS.

3.  Photo Sample

4.  Size Set Sample.

5.   Pre-production Sample. 

 

Garments sample

 Proto Sample or fitting sample

 First the style sheet is send to the sampling rather salesmen sample department to produce the proto sample by buyer via internet.

 Now this department create or give the birth to the imagination of a designer.

Actually they receive a document having the details regarding the garment. They source the fabric of previous season, then color, trimmings, and made 3-pieces of garments send it to buyer.

Now buyer put some comments on the proto or fitting sample and sends back to this department.

Salesmen Sample

This is modified and corrected version .Salesmen sample is produced with original fabric, color, accessories, design and it must be similar to the style sheet.Twenty SMS is produce and send to buyer, they used to hang on their different showroom or retailing shop for advertisement.Then again they send it here for improvement and to make it more style sheet oriented.

Buyer Retail Shop

 Photo Sample

 Photo sample is required for photographic advertisement of a garment. Actually it is the color print out of a new style which gives an idea about what is going to be made. It is also send to buyer asking for approval

Checking For Approval Purpose

Size Set Sample

 It is produced by merchandising department with available fabric, color etc, for fitting purpose and send it to buyer. It is prepared after receiving the comment on SMS.

Fitting Sample

Responsibilities of a merchandiser(Flow chart given bellow)

Work for Merchandiser

                                  Diagram Of Working Process

Diagram: 1

Buyer

 ↓

Buyer's Agency

↓

Salesmen Sample DPT

    ↕ (Proto Sample & SMS)

Buyer

Diagram: 2

                   Buyer → P.P Sample DPT → Buyer's Agency

Diagram: 3

             Buyer's Agency →Merchandising DPT →Bulk Production

It Depends on Company's Sampling Process

 

 

 

 

Work Description For Merchandiser In Garment Export House

MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

 Merchandising department is used as communicating or linking department. Usually this department act as bridge between the various sector like production dpt. & fabric DPT, accessories DPT, printing dpt, packing dpt, embroidery dpt, and also between buyer's agency, buyer & company. 

All departments while going to start any process regarding production they inform this department.

They also collect order sheet and style sheet before bulk production. After get approval of SMS and proto sample they start to produce Size Set sample and after getting approval of size set sample they prepare Pr-Production sample to getting the approval for bulk production. Then they negotiate with the buyer's agency regarding the quality, style, color, fabric, GSM, of PP-sample after the approval of the PP-sample this it to production unit

 During the production  of size set sample this department contact to the others to produce or source the raw material. Though their active participation of merchandising department in production of the garment but they make the process very fluent & fast by communicating to the various department. After getting the finished product they communicate to the buyer's agency for delivery.

 Process Sequence and Involvement of Merchandiser

1. Buyer sent Q.C sheet, style sheet, color artwork, developing artwork to the sample department and ask Proto sample.

2. Sample department produce 3 pieces proto sample with available color, fabric and trimmings and send it to buyer.

3. Buyer sends comments on proto sample and if not satisfied then ask for second proto sample.

4. After sanctification, they ask for salesmen sample (SMS).

5. SMS department produce 20 to 30 pieces SMS and again send it to buyer. This made with actual or original color, fabric, trimmings. Buyer checked the print, design, and uses it for advertisement.

Advertising purpose

6. During advertisement buyer get order from their customers and as per order they send Order sheet and modified Q.C sheet.

7. Now the job of merchandiser begins.

8. They prepare size set sample with available color, fabric, trimmings for fitting and send it to buyer.

9. During this period order sheet is also forwarded to fabric department and accessories department. They start either to produce or to store the row material.

10. Within 10 to 15 days buyer send their comments on size set sample.

11. After getting this comments merchandiser produce PP-sample with original color, fabric and print exactly as per requirement.

Sampling Department

12. After producing the PP-sample it is send to buyer's agency.

13. Quality control department of the buyer's agency examine the sample and also compare it with the earlier comments on SMS and size set sample.

14. After getting approval of the sample it is send to the production unit for bulk production with all details.

15. Now production unit starts to source fabric, trimmings by giving them requisition to the knitting department and accessories department  which is also forward to the merchandising department.16. After getting the fabric they cut it as per requirement and send it for printing and embroidery.

17. Then they calculate how many machine would be require and prepare the sequence of the machine.

18. Now printing department & Embroidery department first produce a sample of design and get the approval from merchandiser.

19. After getting the approval it goes for bulk embroidery or printing.

20. Then they inform the production department to receive the product.

21. Now in the presence of production, line supervisor, merchandiser and Q.C. manager of buyer's agency, production is started.

Key Planner

                

22. During the production the Q.C. of buyer's agency inspect the products and compare it with PP- sample which is known as "ONLINE INSPECTION".

 

23. After completion of the production Q.C. agent of the buyer's agency checked the products which is known as"MID INSPECTION".

24. Merchandiser in also informed in this time.

25. Now the product is sent to the packing department.

26. Packing department inform the store to have the packing accessories.

27. Packing department prepare one packed sample to get the approval from the merchandiser.

28. After getting the approval of packing department goes for bulk irong and then they pack it as per "assortment breakdown". Then they inform to merchandiser that the packing has been done and ready for final inspection.

29. Now again Q.C. of agency is informed to inspect the packed box as per Tom Tailor approved stander ed. After getting the approval from agency product become ready for delivery.

work description for merchandiser in garment export house

 

 

Different Seam Quality Defects

Definition of seam

A seam is a method of two or more than two pieces of materials are sewn together by a row of stitching in a garment or other article.

Basically seams are used joining purpose but now that are used for decorative purposes for garment or apparel design as well as design.There are lots of defect occurred during stitching or handling,so we have discussed defects of seam below.

 

Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine

Introduction

Single Needle Lock Stitch machine or SNLS in used to only for lock stitch that is the stitches of Class 300. But it can not produce all the stitches of this class. This machine is widely used in apparel industry. This is the only machine by which an entire garment can be stitched. Actually this is done in small tailoring shops. But in industry there are more stitching machine is used in parallel to make a garment perfect. 

8500 Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine

Main Parts of Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine and their function

·    Feed Dog: It feeds the material.

·    Pressure Foot: It holds the material

·    Needle Bar: It holds the needle

·    Needle Plate or Throat Plate:  it is used to support the material and helps in the smooth movement of material

·    Pressure Spring: This is used to increase or decrease the pressure on the material

·    Hand Lifter: It lift the pressure foot by hand

·    Knee Lifter: It lift the pressure foot by knee

·    Tension Post: It gives the tension to the needle thread

·    Needle Thread Take Up Spring: It gives tension to the needle thread along with the tension post

·    Stitch Length Dial: It adjust length of the stitches

·    Reverse Feed Control Lever: It form the stitches in the reverse direction

·    Hand Wheel: It helps to operate the machine manually

·    Hook Shuttle: It helps the interlacement process between needle thread and bobbin thread

·    Bobbin Case Holder: It holds the bobbin and its case together

·    Oil Sight Window: It helps in observing the presence of the adequate quantity of oil

·    Oil Pump: It circulate the oil in he machine

·    Oil Pan: It keep the oil for sufficient lubrication

·    Thread Guide: It provide the passage for thread from needle package to needle

various Parts of Sewing Machine in details(picture wise)

1. Spool pin,

2. Bobbin binder spindle,

3. Bobbin winder stopper,

4. Stitch width dial,

5. Pattern selector dial,

6. Hand wheel,

7. Stitch length dial,

8. Reverse stitch lever,

9. Power stitch,

10. Bobbin winder thread guide,

    

11. Thread tension dial,

12. Thread take-up lever,

13. Needle clamp screw,

14. Presser foot,

15. Bobbin cover,

16. Bobbin cover release button,

17. Feed dog,

18. Needle,

19. Needle plate.

Needle

A fine cylindrical pointed metal body which penetrates the through the fabric with the thread and form lock stitches

It consists of few parts

·    Shank: The upper part of needle which locate within the needle bar

·    Blade: This portion is subjected to greatest amount of friction from the material through the needle passes

·    Long Groove: The long groove in the blade provides a protective channel in which the thread is drawn through the material during stitch formation

NEEDLE

·    Short Groove: it assist the formation of loop in the needle thread

·    Scarf: It is a clearance, just above the eye. It enables close setting of the hook to the needle

·    Eye: It carry the needle thread

·    Point: It give the penetration to the material

Diagram of a Needle – DB x 1

 

 

 Bobbin

It keeps the winded bobbin thread and help in regular supply of bobbin thread for stitching.

 

Bobbin and Bobbin Case

Attaching the Bobbin and its Case to the Machine(pictures)

Bobbin cases are  holding the bobbin even they also serve tension to the lower thread for the proper and the best seam. While replacing a bobbin case, get special attention to the tension adjustment to prevent or protect aggravating problems.

 

Stitch Class 300 - Lock Stitches

In this class, stitch types are formed with two or more groups of threads, and have for a general characteristic the interlacing of the two or more groups. Loops of one group are passed through the material and are secured by the threads of a group

 Stitch Class 300 Includes Following Stitch Type   

  301, 302, 303, 304, 305, 306, 307, 308, 309, 310, 311, 312, 313, 314, 315, 316, 317, 318, 319, 320, 321, 322, 323, 324, 325, 326, 327, 328, 329, 351 ETC.

Development of an Equation to Simulate Seam Pucker

  Introduction:  

Quality is one of the most sensitive and important factor in any industry. In Textile industry specifically in Garment Manufacturing it is one of the most concerned fields of domains being regularly focused. Everyday garment industry is defining as well as maintaining the quality through new methods.There are many issues in garment industry still remained unsolved or partially solved.

About Seam Pucker :

Seam pucker is considered to be one of them. Several research workers have made experimental study on the puckering problem of the seam .The detailed analysis has been also carried out to understand the factors governing the phenomenon and discussed further to eliminate the same in the products.

  About 20 factors are identified which have direct or indirect influences on seam pucker like needle and bobbin thread tension, fabric density i.e. picks per inch and ends per inch , yarn count, thread number, shrinkage of the both fabric and thread, weight of the fabric, SPI or stitch density, pressing force of the pressure foot, RPM of the machine etc. But still today it is widely controlled by operator’s skill during production and suggestions like, to lower the speed, adjusting the needle size and setting of bobbin thread tension, proper pressing force of the pressure foot are often utilized on trial and error basis.The aim of this research is to establish an equation which can prevent, generate or reproduce seam pucker along the seam line. In the present work with the controlled experimentation, attempts are made to generate variable set of seam pucker intensity in the fabrics. Then an equation has been developed in order that the amount of seam puckering can be predicted as well as prevented depending on the use of the equation during manufacturing. 

Different Parameters :

  we have selected five most prominent influential factors of seam puckering and three levels of the parameters are selected.

These are GSM of the fabric; RPM of the main shaft, Stitch per Inch Pressing force of the pressure foot and needle thread tension. Three levels of the parameters denote the range of them and the domain of the project against each of the parameters as well as the three levels also help to obtain curvilinear nature of the relationship between parameters and puckering intensity. Then total 729 polyester fabric samples having specific dimension are sewn to obtain varied level of seam puckering intensity measured by its length and thickness. With all these data we have derived the relation between the pucker intensity and five parameters based on the method of least squares. 

controlling or minimizing seam pucker :

Since there is no such definite formula or way to characterize seam pucker combining both contraction as well as the number of pucker’s wave, we have devised a new method by measuring the same following simple technique. We have observed a few phenomena during  projects.

For example the lightest fabric i.e. 70 gsm in our project seems to be very difficult to be sewn in 5000 RPM and above. Basically increasing in GSM, low ranges of speed around 3000 RPM, medium pressing force like 1.2 kg have been found to generate lower seam pucker. Again higher density of stitches and also thread tension with higher speed result in severe disturbance like needle breakage, fabric accumulation during light GSM fabric stitching. By analyzing the pucker intensity of 729 samples we have derived the equation by the method of least squares.

Conclusion : 

Ultimately we can predict the exact combination of the five parameters which will give the level of seam pucker intensity with the help of spread sheet program and Mat Lab. Further attempt is being made to use the method of design of experiment for 5 factors of three levels.

This project is limited in the domain of hundred percent polyester filament fabrics normally used for dress material. The study has therefore a practical implication in garment and related industries. Today in the world of fashion seam pucker is also considered as a different way to enhance the appearance of the garments. In such cases intensity of the puckering can be predetermined and regularized.

Keywords :

Seam pucker, pucker intensity, stitch density, RPM, GSM, pressing force, thread tension, Method of least squares

SEAM PUCKER